MPC 1k Q-Link Repair

Oh the joys of owning older gear.  Q2 on my MPC was super sketchy.  Loading up the JJOS v3 test menu showed Q2 was going from a range of about 300-500, and normal operation is 0-1000.  Another fun problem was that moving Q1 was also making a subtle change to Q2.  That’s definitely not supposed to happen!

I figured there were a few things to try in order to resolve this.

  1. It might just be that the Q-Link board was horribly damaged, and needed to be replaced. A quick look on http://www.mpcstuff.com showed that this was going to cost a bit in order to go this route.
  2. The fader could be gunked up with dust, and just need to be blown out.  The older gear gets, the more dust it picks up, and a lot of pots, faders, and tact switches might need to  be sprayed with DeOxit, blown out with air, or otherwise freed of gunk.
  3. The cable that connects to the Q-Link board might have gotten oxidized, and in desperate need of being reseated.

I figured I’d start with the low cost solutions. It’s honestly not that hard to pop the MPC 1k open, so I figured I’d just get a closer look. My strategy was to disconnect the cables to the board in case of a bad connection, and blow the fader out with some compressed air. While I can say that using your breath can help this suffers from two problems… first is that if you’re allergic to dust you may get a face full which isn’t so great, and second the moisture in your breath can do long term damage to electronics. The moisture might seem like a “so what”, but the older your gear is, the less time you want to spend repairing it.

Before putting the case back together, I figured I’d give it the good old JJOS test. Fortunately after reconnecting the cables and blowing out the fader I was back in business. Always a happy day for an easy fix!

I’ve got a few tact switches that feel a bit sticky from time to time. This probably indicates the possible need for a switch or button replacement. I’ll worry about that later though.

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