Oh the joys of owning older gear. Q2 on my MPC was super sketchy. Loading up the JJOS v3 test menu showed Q2 was going from a range of about 300-500, and normal operation is 0-1000. Another fun problem was that moving Q1 was also making a subtle change to Q2. That’s definitely not supposed to happen!
I figured there were a few things to try in order to resolve this.
- It might just be that the Q-Link board was horribly damaged, and needed to be replaced. A quick look on http://www.mpcstuff.com showed that this was going to cost a bit in order to go this route.
- The fader could be gunked up with dust, and just need to be blown out. The older gear gets, the more dust it picks up, and a lot of pots, faders, and tact switches might need to be sprayed with DeOxit, blown out with air, or otherwise freed of gunk.
- The cable that connects to the Q-Link board might have gotten oxidized, and in desperate need of being reseated.
I figured I’d start with the low cost solutions. It’s honestly not that hard to pop the MPC 1k open, so I figured I’d just get a closer look. My strategy was to disconnect the cables to the board in case of a bad connection, and blow the fader out with some compressed air. While I can say that using your breath can help this suffers from two problems… first is that if you’re allergic to dust you may get a face full which isn’t so great, and second the moisture in your breath can do long term damage to electronics. The moisture might seem like a “so what”, but the older your gear is, the less time you want to spend repairing it.
Before putting the case back together, I figured I’d give it the good old JJOS test. Fortunately after reconnecting the cables and blowing out the fader I was back in business. Always a happy day for an easy fix!
I’ve got a few tact switches that feel a bit sticky from time to time. This probably indicates the possible need for a switch or button replacement. I’ll worry about that later though.